Thailand the country of eternal summer.
… On rural street the herd goes, the silence of early morning is broken only by a measured jingling of hand bells on a neck at cows. They go slowly, without hurrying up, both sounds turn out silent and gentle: clank … clank … clank …
I open eyes, the dream rests fly, and I understand that I not in village, and I was woken by absolutely other sounds. «Clank … clank … clank». It «wind music» – the ethnic talisman which it is melodious sounds at each whiff of an ocean breeze. I in Thailand, on one of the most beautiful islands of the country – Koh Samui.
Freedom to a potato!
Numerous tourists from Russia know English language at level of a film of Mimino which asked: «do you speak English?» – and then started to explain in Russian. Here and we, having arrived to Hong Kong (here change), have tried to have a bite in cafe. Also have felt feebleness at attempt to explain that it is necessary to us. «potato frie» – begged the seller. All is correct: the first word means “the potato”, the second ‐ a way of preparation. Thanks that our compatriot standing nearby has come to the rescue and has fast explained that it is necessary to us. Here now and me it is known that it is necessary to speak: «potato fries», «French Fries» or «CHIPS» – if it is the British English. And then … Well whence I knew, what exactly these words will be necessary for me first minutes of foreign life? Though, of course, understood that «frie» it is more on a pronunciation looks like «free».
Our assistant – the girl from Russia – has sat down in cafe near to us, and we with her have got to talking. «I live here, in Hong Kong. At us plus fifteen, we freeze. And in Thailand – summer. About! As I envy you! There very much it will be pleasant to you – all very affable. For example, if you have sat down in the plane, and have gone blind from crew smiles is means that you in the plane of the Thai company».
Not China’s reading and writing
Our tourists, probably, the most courageous – only we go abroad without knowledge of a foreign language. Though, like, also we learn foreign some years… Therefore it becomes somehow awkward that in the same Thailand many own skills of colloquial English though formation in the country expensive, diplomas are accessible not to everyone. And even at people without the diploma very considerably polite attention to the interlocutor, desire to understand: «That he speaks?» In any salon you will necessarily ask about that, whence, and will necessarily tell: «Russia? Ооо! Well!»
“Double-Dutch” – so we speak about difficult business or difficult language. And so, after language of inhabitants of Thailand the Chinese language has seemed to me elementary: at least, in tracings of hieroglyphs it is possible to guess their values: “house”, “person”, “boat”. And how to learn that is written, if before you almost identical letters, moreover built a solid line – on words do not share.
Yes … Such language should be absorbed only with milk of mother.
Affable Thais even more blur in a smile, having caught sight of the kid. Can approach to parents, having expressed the admiration of the child. Compliments compliments, but any sacrifice it is not observed: powdered with a flour a face of the child – have protected from evil ghosts – and let to itself runs. Mummies can even take the child with themselves for work. Not clearly? Simply women very much appreciate that they have a work, therefore in “decree” do not sit up. I saw, how in shop in an arena on a floor the babe, and in a bed – the second slept. Nearby behind a counter there were two saleswomen – mummies of children. It is quite ordinary picture. And absolutely easy parents can plant the child on a motorbike, without having taken care of a helmet – at least for the babe.
Children as I have understood, even earn on bread, playing musical instruments and dancing at fairs.
Difficultly bread was extracted by the person
The snake charmer hypnotised royal cobras. It is said that if to look a cobra in the face it will not bite, having given in to hypnosis. And how then presence on arena at once three cobras? The young Thai coped with all simultaneously kissing showing as poison drips. It was ridiculous, when each kiss sitting at the panel of the DJ sounded, loudly kissing a microphone. But generally the trainer earns on bread, risking every day.
This show passed on a farm of crocodiles. The farm amazes neither the sizes, nor exotic. Usual monkeys miss in cages. And only one of them regularly ran up to a door, pushed a pad and tried to remove a latch. Probably, therefore it was in a cage one – that did not set an example.
Ducks and chickens run underfoot. And in open-air cages with muzzles rabbits ridiculously move. Sadly … Because all it, probably, except monkeys, – a forage for crocodiles. They – the present owners of this territory. It is a lot of them, behind each fence. It is possible to glance and see, how they roll small logs. Very quiet.
Same quiet, but the much bigger sizes, acted on show. Two Thais dragged them for tails, put the hands and heads in a mouth. From time to time the loud clap was heard is the mouth of a crocodile slammed, and not in time anything to bite off.
That crocodiles «not the presents» also sleep on the move, was denied by a show after show. They is dashing jumped up, breaking the meat adhered to a fishing tackle. Was caused to feed the crocodiles, one of visitors, our compatriot, in one hand holding a fishing tackle with the adhered fresh meat, and in another – the child.
Our tourists in general differ cheerful nature. For example, on a beach all family drove on sand of a crab, laughing loudly how it funny flies sideways. And when the crab has failed in a mink daddy took a dry branch and began to check, what depth a saving small house.
Island of Samui are palm groves and mountains. All coast is the continuous beach “divided” only by names. Laem Sat, Bang Kao is in the south of island, we had a rest in the north: the Lamai, Maenam. In total more than twenty names. The most popular among tourists is the Chaweng – the present tropical paradise where it is possible to find not only to the romanticist, but also to “come off” in noisy discos. But to us and on the Lamai – silent, family beaches – it was good. And in one of fine days the Russian has approached to us and has taken an interest: «How much count ruins ashore?» It appears, on a Chaweng a storm, and they have sat down on a motorbike and go round island in search of a bungalow. To bathe on a Chaweng it is impossible, there, probably, there were only fans of discos. And here on our beaches in same it is a high time – an equal water smooth surface. Probably, as breakwaters small islands serve.
On the Internet it is said that on island of Samui – the best beaches of the world. But I of such especial have not noticed anything. Usual, silent, quiet sandy coast. It is not enough people, though, on expression of tour operators, a season high. There is no here a special lustre and a glamour, all home-style. And here the most valuable is that all beaches free that you will not see even in Sochi. As I have learnt, beaches are a property of the king of Thailand, thanks to it any hotel has no right to block access to the sea. For a chaise lounge can demand payment, (and can and not demand), and here the sea for all.
So if you lie on a sand and know that sunbathe on a royal beach you can easily agree that you on the best in the world a beach.
It is good to arrive, of course, on Samui “savage” – it is not obliged till the end of a season to sit on seacoast during a storm if will not carry with weather. But, on the other hand, to travel about on island in searches of “count ruins», losing on search precious days of holiday … And these searches will how much successfully come to the end? On me so the permit is more reliable nevertheless. Well and this time we with the son lived in a small house which here already half a year is removed by a family of my daughter. The good habitation convenient, among palm trees and blossoming trees. «Now that’s something like it! At you Sea view»!»- One of visitors has exclaimed, having risen on a verandah. Not clear word spoke simply: from the house the view of the sea that is very much appreciated opens. At least, among Russian living here.
Any more the secret that those who can work far off, with the supporters-computers gets over in warm edges. Young families go to Thailand basically, with juvenile kiddies and the father – computer god or the demigod. Medicine here at worthy level, a climate good, fruit-berries tasty. Qualitative, also it is not necessary to search for products special for the child – all is suitable for baby food.
Besides families with children from Russia also it is a lot of Europeans of pension age. Basically German-speaking men walk in couples with Thais. So for social security of representatives of Germans I am quiet: practically everyone has a possibility to bend the grey-haired head on swarty knees of the islander.
With weather has carried. Every day on the sea – and though one droplet of a rain! The sea too pleased with an unruffled surface. But what besides bathing?
Party-goers will find the adherents in any country, and «The Fool Moon Party» – a party just for those who is full of energy till the morning. However, till the morning it is possible to stay with a fishing tackle – small fishes swim up close to coast and sometimes even jump up over water. Also time behind billiards imperceptibly flies: on Wednesdays pass the championships of local value between international commands. It gives to game a special sharpness, fans support zealously.
One of fascinating pastimes – campaigns in mountains on motorbikes. My son-in-law Vitaly – one of organizers of these actions, it has worked routes on a map, has collected adherents. In the command there are the most hardy: mountain tracks are abrupt. But are beautiful …
At local population I have noticed unusual sports. For example, a volleyball and football mix: we saw, how on an athletic field minted an unusual ball and tried to get rid of it in highly hanging basket. And in Bangkok, practically in the centre of capital, “shashe-chess players” in the street have settled down: on a cellular board stood both chessmen, and draughts, and around – crowd which supported players.
It is necessary to drive to capital of Thailand at night. It is a lot of fires and impression of active, raging life. Also it is completely not visible, for example, that water in the channel dirty.
But channels in this huge megacity much, there is also a deep river Chao-Prajja with skyscrapers on coast. Sellers on a canoe in bright clothes float on the river and suggest to buy the same bright fruit and vegetables. It is feature of Bangkok, as well as “tuk-tuks” – only in this city there are bright taxi-motorcycles with such ridiculous name
Many fine temples. And greatest of them is the Temple of Gold Mountain, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Big royal palace adjoining to it. A great show! The complex of buildings simply sparkles gold, a mosaic. The Emerald Buddha (so it, at least, name), is in a temple very highly. Also say that changes an attire to an esteemed sculpture the king.
Paradise and snakes
On the way to a beach we have met the neighbour on a motorbike. «Is more careful, I saw on road a snake». He wanted to warn, but it has turned out that has simply frightened. I even have responded nothing. Though it was necessary to tell “thanks” or it is good”. Though that is good? Me have then calmed, having told that all are afraid of snakes, but cocoes kills people more. The mature heavy coco flies from a high palm tree, turning to a gun kernel. So having a rest it is necessary to be attentive, walking in a palm grove. And in general – the maiden on a beach could not to advertise chocolate, and quite seriously to warn that under a palm tree to lie dangerously – it is possible to be hurt by a coco.
Well and those who has arrived here for a short while, can not worry: those snakes who yet has not lived three in these edges of month, do not touch. Sniff?
Many years ago natural furs were accessible at the price the little, and in general on their free sale was not. The cap from a muskrat or a nutria cost 300-400 roubles are three average salaries. Therefore when I stood at a stop in a fur coat from a nutria (has brought from Poland), the man has simply lost a speech power: «At you a fur coat – as my cap, but ALL!»
And so … Now types popularity a peeling small fishes a foot of feet. And so … In Thailand offer a peeling small fishes – but already all body. Here where paradise pleasure! After procedure as though wings grow. But during procedure tickles.
Paradise pleasure is also Thai massage – it is possible to relax and fall asleep. It is possible to accept and other cosmetic procedures – the blessing, for masks there are many variants from ripening fruit.
If you come into cafe, necessarily ask «no spacy». And even after that I do not guarantee that to you will submit not a burning dish. Thais can season it with hot spices even to make to you pleasant. After all burning dishes – their favourite. They eat them not with bread, and fig. Bread Europeans buy here only.
However, during rest we have got used and even have fallen in love with soup a Tom Yam – with a hen and shrimps. Half, truth, remains in a plate are slices of ginger, some pepper chilis, spicy grasses … Represent, in one dish a fresh horse-radish and bitter pepper? But thanks to a sharpness and an abundance of seafood Thai cuisine is recognised by useful. To share the recipe it will not turn out, after all you will not write: replace coconut milk with usual cow milk … coconut milk though “extinguishes” a flame in a mouth a little.
«Whether you ate cockroaches?» Is the most frequent question which set come back of Thailand. I respond: we did not eat. Was that to us have told enough: when you chew a cockroach it seems that you chew cellophane. Besides it is what to attempt. Advantage – to seafood and the fruit, which very tasty. And unusual by sight. For example, the Chinese apples can be mixed with the Bulgarian pepper, and “garlic” in a violet cover has appeared juicy and sweet fruit.
As a bad dream
Some streets of cities of Thailand, seemingly, left bad dreams of electricians: solid lines of wires. Here joke: if the wire is unsuitable, it do not remove, and simply lay the new.
And it is possible to name bad dreams of “GAI officers” movement on roads. That link sided movement, – it is possible to get used to it. And here what in bodies of pickups people go? “Minibuses” local – «without windows and doors», and if there is not enough place it is possible to go on a footboard. I already wrote that transport children without helmets on motor-motorbikes. Yes all practically go without helmets, on some persons by one motorcycle, including full gas. At me even the photo is: on a motorbike mum, the father and two juvenile children go. However, such photos it is possible to make set.
It as a bad dream. But the kind reality is that: Thailand – accident-free region. A great skill of drivers: despite a great speed the car or “minibus” goes smoothly, without jerks, and motorcyclists perfectly are guided in a situation. To operate a motorcycle are able since the childhood and move on it everywhere.
As speak: «If the Thai has to pass 200 metres, he will necessarily sit down on a motorbike».
Roads here quite good. But the line happens difficult: an angle of lead in 45 degrees – not a rarity. It is a lot of turns, and on everyone cloth level has an inclination inside, as on high-speed tracks. Will not take out on turn! On certain distance on road – “alarm clocks”, from journey on such to “a washing board» the gnash and the car is audible shakes. The driver is stirred up also: soon turn or it is just necessary to be attentive. A good piece for those who goes on a long distance.
I also have noticed that traffic lights here are rare, through some kilometres. At such stream of cars and absence of the traffic lights, special pedestrian crossings full calmness on roads and very low breakdown susceptibility? In what a secret? I do not know. But still say that on roads there are no also “dismantlings” and any abuse, any aggression.
Small houses for spirits
The island of Samui is sated by sights. To tourists will show many temples, pagodas, a garden of butterflies and a crocodile farm. We were in more exclusive position because the daughter with the son-in-law hired the car, and we have visited more many places, including the White Buddha about whom many at all do not know, the Lying Buddha, the Red temple.
Have brought many photos because it would be desirable to be photographed there continually, at each flower. Unusual the grove where on a drop collect latex has seemed to us – then of it do a high quality material for medicine, for furniture manufacture. Very beautiful small houses for spirits have seemed to us. They are near apartment houses, establishments. To cajole spirits, these small constructions dress up garlands from colours and put bottles with water. According to Thais, spirits love bright colours, therefore both garlands bright, and “aerated water” of red or orange colour.
Print of a foot of the Buddha
The print of fingers of Stierlitz is known by all country. And some know that it is the well-known film mistake: bow-shaped lines which took for an illustration, characterise people of low intellectual level. The more lines in the form of “circles”, the better.
In many temples there are prints of foot of the Buddha. On them it is accurately visible that on a tip of each finger of a huge foot set of the concentrated circles. And still, judging by a print when the Buddha went by the ground on a surface flowers were printed.
Trace of the Buddha not only in it. A large quantity of temples in Its honour amaze imagination. All temples are beautiful as outside, and painted walls and ceilings are remarkable. All is created by the big work and talent of the people. Also it continues to be created. For example, temple Plae Laem, the Temple in a lotus – modern creation of Buddhist architecture – have been constructed in 2004 on donations of local residents.
It is touching to look at these works of art. And it is touching that inhabitants of Thailand let in the operating temples. Please, look and be surprised.
Before an entrance in a temple only do not forget to take off footwear.\
Instead of the conclusion
As I already have told in the beginning, in Thailand you will not see the European lustre. Moreover, it is possible to see and dirty places. But their this business. Not they to us have on a visit arrived, and we to them, and have no right to condemn. Perhaps it is tourists have polluted? I would note high culture of the people at which as I spoke, not so it is a lot of diplomas about higher education, but they remove footwear not only before temples, but also before offices and small shops.
And inhabitants of Thailand it is possible to respect at least that in the territory approximately equal to the Tyumen region, lives 140 million – so much, how many in Russia. If all of us on such territory, moreover tourists to let in? I do not know that would be. And they and are full, and others will feed. And live, and another allow to have a rest easy. And the smile at them is born faster, than a swear word.
The well-known hero has told: «the eternal needle for a kerosene stove is not necessary to me – I am not going to live eternally». And so, too «the eternal needle for a kerosene stove» is not necessary to me, and I do not want eternal summer, and is glad to change of winter, spring, summer and autumn. But for fine rest I thank the Country of Eternal Summer. For smiles of its inhabitants – thanks!
Kop Khun Kha!