From island of Samui on a motorbike along gulf of Siam
– Dolphins! – I have cried out, running by the husband to the left board of the ferry.
Well where.? I in all eyes looked at water, trying to capture a sight all surface: before it they have come up time four, and I after all have made sure that it not seemed to me … Have made sure, yes, yes! I have gone down downwards on level. Has passed hardly forward. Has returned on a stern. Again upward. To the right board …
– The Vitaly!
One more girl who has understood on my exclamation has approached to ferry right side that I have found out them again.
Three brilliant backs by turns synchronously came up from water and vanished for an instant… Dolphins!
To see their big rarity. I was overflowed with feeling of pleasure from our meeting. The sensation of a successful trip has inspired and has given to confidence. We again in a way!
Day the first. Samui (Setran Ferry a Don Sak) – a Sala (80 km).
In search of surprises
The son, having waited while we will sit down on a motorbike and we will go, has breathed heavily, having leant the elbows to me on a hand. The head wind lulled noise and a cool.
I through shabby glass of a helmet examined surrounding landscapes, remembering pictures from someone’s lives: here two Thais have settled down on a handrail of a verandah and talk, looking at road, and here the man in the towel surrounded in the manner of a skirt important walks up and down near the house. The fine kind on a rock which is sticking out of “green” mountain at the left has opened, on the right through bushes huge buds of lotuses have seemed. I do not cease to admire the nature of Thailand, and she in gratitude tries to surprise with something me.
From a small height the fine kind on a lagoon – our first purpose has ahead opened. We hoped to find out here a lonely beach without tourists with silent hotel. Also were not mistaken almost: tourists here were not, but … presence of several tens Thais did not allow to name this place lonely.
Here so, casually, we have found out public park with children’s hills and a swing, a summer scene, cut lawns and shops ashore. Construction has appeared at all hotel, and restaurant with arbours along avenue. In the middle there is a small garden from stones and dwarfish trees with grey leaves. On a beach in an easy approach piles lay rubber circles for entertainments on water. Despite Friday midday, set of Thais the whole families have settled down on all beach: someone occupied a shade under trees, someone had dinner in cafe, someone froliced on waves.
Here for what I love our trips, so it for similar impromptus and surprises: when you expect to see one, and you open for yourself absolutely another. And more often this “another” appears better!
We were ready to that the beach does not become for us a place for a long stop, therefore had a little a rest, were supported and have gone further.
Pictures from roadsides
Along roads of Thailand continually there are small arbours figures of aged men or monks. One of the such has especially drawn our attention. On a handrail from it huge snakes go down, and the grey-haired old man in a white cloak inside sits. At a ladder figurines of animals and birds are traditionally established: a horse, an elephant, a zebra, a cock. Quite often there are tigers and monkeys. The arbour is located on a height and consequently from it the beautiful view of the sea opens. In relation to road this place is necessary on the middle of long turn, therefore is frequent from passing by transport warning sound signals are distributed. Here so you stand on a ladder at a handrail of fantastic beauty, looking at the sea, under solemn exclamations of cars and you try to believe that it is all not a dream.
Other artificial construction remains for us a riddle. We have noticed that from the sea the land part is fenced by the stones forming small lagoons-pools. Any boats and structures nearby was not. Hardly the small port far away settles down, but, probably, these two places are not connected in any way. As it is more anywhere than anything similar we did not meet, this design has seemed to us enough the interesting.
So has developed that the first day in a way consisted of a train of spiritual and wordly objects. Therefore the place for general worship became the following. Thailand, as well as Russia, – the country approving different religions. In its territory mosques, the Chinese temples and Christian churches are located. The brightest, undoubtedly, are Chinese, but seldom they happen such sizes, as that has met on our way. Improbably beautiful!
Here a long-awaited unification with the nature. Suddenly we have taxied on a deserted beach which has been covered by sea cockleshells. And here my creative which has inspired me on creation valentines directly on sand – 14th February as as has woken up! With Day of love!
By the evening we have got to to provincial small town under the name a Sala. In a small small village inhabitants basically are engaged in cultivation of shrimps. Concrete pools-farms and images of shrimps on signboards meet almost in each court yard. In the settlement centre are athletic field on which local in the evenings play football, and a temple with beautiful illumination. “Centre” consists of pair small streets with shops and cafes.
Day of the second. A Sala – a Nakhon Si Thammarat (20 km).
Morning has begun with a pleasant find – a deserted beach. On kilometres to the right and to the left nobody sunbathed and did not bathe. In the distance on sea horizon some ships were seen.
But one spoon of tar was on this travel – on all extent from Khanom and to a Nakhon Si Thammarat beaches have appeared improbably littered. From a zone of inflow and further towards a land the flabby pieces of polyfoam thrown out by a storm, fragmentary footwear, plastic and glass rolled. Similar also that in an origin of some garbage local residents are guilty also: glass small bottles from Thai power have obviously come here not on the sea. There was an impression that all this skilfully laid out stuff is protection against flow of tourists and protects beaches from probably big harm of foreigners. Here and to us it was necessary to huddle a pair of clocks at the edge of water, feeling discomfort from not aesthetic neighbourhood.
Welcome to Nakhon Si Thammarat!
If in a Krabi I have been amazed by unusual traffic lights on roads then I liked two pedestrian crossings: one in Chinese, another in the Arabian style, and also street lampposts with figures of animals in strict conformity to east calendar. And a bit later I have got acquainted with more significant city sights.
Our evening walk has taken place in park at the ancient city wall which have remained here at least since 13 centuries AD In adjoining territory set of well-groomed lawns, and from below the rests of city strengthenings highlight powerful projectors. With darkness approach everywhere in a city illumination joins, and the city finds a celebratory shade.
We already have got used to walk bravely with the child on parks, including in the evening. Thais come to them on one and steams, with children or house pupils. By the company of young men you pass carelessly. Instead of people drinking spirits here are going wishing to improve the physical form. Under rhythmical music, repeating movements of the trainer standing on a scene, men and women do evening gymnastics.
So, in pleasure, walks in the light of street lanterns and the moon are made!
Day the third. A Nakhon Si Thammarat – a Sala (20 km).
The Nakhon Si Thammarat card
Empty roads have reminded that today Sunday morning. Despite it, in territory (Wat Phra Mahathat Woramaha Viharn it was populous. The column of parishioners has brought a long yellow cloth in gate of an ancient temple. One roll of a fabric have laid round the small stupa, the second – in main Chedi, other cloth has been laid in gallery surrounding it where it carefully took up in rolls about ten women.
In one of them the artefacts found in district are collected. Here it is possible to see skeletons of ancient mammals, and also clothes, the weapon and ware, dated 16-20 centuries AD Are the copies, deserving separate attention, for example, the tool for preparation of Thai spicy noodles, a rasp for cocoes, the wooden tank for cold water – under the form and an external list reminding our samovar. In other museum treasures are collected: jewels, royal attributes from precious metals and stones.
By turns, without vanity and a crush, without being stirred and without detaining, parishioners approached to relics and worshipped, leaving flowers, candles and fragrant sticks. Tens people in narrow corridors and small halls operated without a foreign management as one and consequently we have easy passed everywhere, have visited all popular halls, without feeling crowd presence.
There is a contact!
Near one of entrances in a temple at our son dialogue with the man of a picturesque kind has taken place. Later our teacher of the Thai has told that it oh-oh-oh what important person! The pasha, looking at the uncle, has seen that it should make «kokuka» and has combined handles before itself. In the answer the touched old man has touched it a tip of the staff ‐ probably, fortunately. The representatives accompanying the aged man, have approvingly begun to smile. Lovely people!
I too did not remain without dialogue with local. Thai schoolgirls and students who study English language approached to me to interview. Homework at children is practice of dialogue with foreigners. Spying in leaflets-cribs, they asked the questions and did a photo for memory. One student has approached with the mum – the teacher of English language at school Yothin Bamrung School. Mrs. Samruaj Vongsavat has appeared very sympathetic: some times invited to itself to a lunch, suggested to address to her if her help is required, and asked to call necessarily in the following our trip to a Nakhon Si Thammarat. Having got new acquaintances, we have left a temple.
Entertainments and entertainments
On the area at an entrance flights of pigeons are flied. There and then it is possible to get a bag with millet and rice to treat the insatiable feathery. A cheerful entertainment for children and not only. Adults too do not refuse to itself pleasure to feed birds and to make memorable photos against a snow-white stupa. Beautiful students in cloaks just posed on the chamber when we have joined them also.
With approach of midday our family has left the open space and has hastened to take cover in a shade of trees at high falls. Phromlok it is located in territory of national park Khao Luang and consists of four steps. To it conduct well-groomed tracks. The resourceful youth has adapted a slope of the second step under an aquapark: competing in speed young men with cheers rolled down downwards straight in a pool bowl. At the bottom of falls benches and little tables for rest – everything are established that is necessary for sensation of a high-grade relax.
This day we still had time to return to a Sala and to sunbathe on beach already familiar to us. To our surprise, we have appeared there not one. The beach all as remained deserted while over us flied about six paraplanes with the motor. Flying by, glider pilots waved to us from above.
Day the fourth. A Sala – Khanom – Samui (Setran Ferry a Don Sak) (80 km).
The fourth day of our travel consisted of two solar-sea procedures ‐ till a dinner in a Sala, after a dinner in Khanom. In end of walk to me all time for a beach would not be desirable to lie, and we with the son have gone to photograph local vicinities. Fishing small houses and boats together with palm trees and the sea have appeared very picturesque. Having used ready scenery, I have arranged to the Pasha small photosession as he was not against and willingly posed.
Besides, we have remembered one sight for our tourist coin box. All who used a ferry, for certain know that, approaching on a Don Sak, it is possible to see a white figure of the Buddha between ports Raja and Setran. It has been this time decided to visit him ashore. We have called in to a statue of the Buddha on a visit then were loaded on six-hour ferry.
Going on a new route, we think that we “will close” the next blank on a map of Thailand where we have not visited yet, in practice it turns out that we do for ourselves announcements of following trips to the same district. So occurs because all for time to visit not always the places probably and which have remained without our attention automatically lay down in a basis of our following routes of which I as fiduciary dream from first days after returning to island of Samui.